Lauca, Isluga, y Coipasa

During my time in Putre I got to know a group of engineers from all the way down south near Concepción. They were in town for a couple of weeks doing solar panel installations to power a new network of cellular antennae up on the altiplano. We drank beer and… more »

Putre etc

A small grid of quiet, dusty streets in the precordillera of northern Chile, the Aymara village of Putre sits about 75km west of, and at 3500m is 1.2 vertical kilometres below the remote Bolivia/Chile border post at Chungara. The population is somewhere around 1500 but to walk the streets is… more »

Sixty Degrees of Latitude…

First presented in preview form here Sixty Degrees of Latitude is here at last and available to order. 132 pages of interesting photography, printed on a very high quality ‘lustre’ finish paper.  It is not a travelog as such, nor is it exclusively street photography. Rather it is just a… more »

Tierra del Fuego…

I think he wanted to play at Captain but instead was being forced to deal with The General Public.. oiks like me for example ;-) Unlike the captain himself the chap managing the boarding and taking tickets for the ferry to Porvenir was a grumpy old duffer… or maybe he… more »

once more unto the pampa…

The Furious Fifties were howling appropriately as I lay in bed feeling the building rock with each mammoth gust and thinking “oh it could be a bit rough on the road today”. It took quite an effort to wrench myself away from Puerto Natales that morning, I’d found very much… more »

square wheels…

I have concrete, possibly square, wheels on my bike… or this is how it seems. The last two days my efforts to leave town have taken me as far as the breakfast table where I invariably settle down with a few good coffees, some wonderful home-made bread, pull my map… more »

primary colours

The sun came out this evening. There is a little house with a red roof across the street from my window, I have been looking at it for the last couple of days… just enjoying the geometry of the roof and the overhead wires around it.   There is also… more »

Puerto Natales…

Fireplaces. This was the metaphor that sprang instantly to mind when I thought of how to compare Puerto Natales with El Calafate. No idea why but it works for me. Apologies to any readers who have a cheap and shiny.. either fake brass or marble, fireplace, perhaps from Argos or… more »

to El Chalten…

I lost my lucky hat….  I lost it in the gale of wind crossing Lago O’Higgins on the boat. But it’s OK, being well prepared as always I have a back-up hat, a woolly one from home in Cornwall. Given its origins I may well find it to be attractive… more »

Costa Rica…. (or not ;-)

I lay in my tent listening to the rain pattering on the fly and huge gusts of wind tearing through the forest like cannon balls… each one followed moments later by a violent shudder in my tent as it flexed heavily in the wind. I watched my breath mist in… more »

Feliz Navidad and all that..

I shall wish you all Happy Christmas now in case, as seems likely, I don’t get another chance.. I hope you have a terrific time. I shall be on the road I have decided, it seems highly likely I will be able to link up with my German friends.. but… more »

Chaiten y la Carretera Austral

< a couple of caveats before I get on with the narrative.. it’s quite a long one so I hope you’re sitting comfortably.. and one or two of the photos might not appeal to the squeamish or those of a vegetarian disposition… > Post-apocalyptic Chaiten, 2 1/2 years ago a… more »


I’ll post this little bit now as once I leave Chiloe on the boat tonight I suspect it will be a while before I see wifi or internet again… While wandering around Quellon yesterday evening I wondered if I would feel the same about the place if my host in… more »

somewhat damp in Castro & Chonchi

Just 87km down the road from Ancud, Castro had a noticeably different character.. lacking Ancuds outgoing charm I suppose it is no more than you would expect from a renovated administrative capital. The palafitos on the waterfront are pretty but beyond that the weathered old wood and corrugated buildings have… more »

Arturo Prat…

Arturo Prat, possibly known as Archie or Arty to his friends, was a Chilean Navy Officer who become a national hero after his death at the Battle of Iquique in 1879. I only mention him because most Chilean towns, at least down here, have a street or a plaza named… more »

Ancud etc…

If I was asked to summarise Ancud in one photograph I might use this one… or possibly this one might be more useful.. But I don’t so instead I can just throw a few at you :-) Ancud has a terrific vibe to it, aside from the colour all the… more »

Puerto Varas

Puerto Varas, I have a room in a rambling old hospedaje.. a veritable rabbit warren of dark wooden corridors and alcoves illuminated by little rectangular skylights. There are redundant bakelite fittings on the walls from an earlier electrical age and I can enjoy such curious innovations as the light switch… more »

No hay agua caliente…

In Osorno, for a few quid, I stayed in a gloriously delapidated pension where the old blankets lay an inch thick on the beds, lino was peeling off the bathroom walls and the friendly but slightly eccentric landlady in her pale blue dressing gown kept the ignition for the hot… more »

Los Lagos log house…

One of my favourite things about travel by bike, other than the freedom, is that one is never fully in control of ones destiny, unexpected things happen that invariably add to the richness of the journey, even if it is a dog running away with your shoe… On Friday morning… more »

Lican Ray & other odd place names..

Lican Ray felt like a place that was holding its breath.. in late November the new seasons tourists have not yet arrived and the previous season is just a distant memory amongst the footprints in the black sand beach. Just 30km south from Villarrica this was my way of testing… more »

Monday. Sunshine

Monday, sunshine.. the faded, melancholic town of yesterday springs to life with a colour and vibrancy that could not have been guessed at a day earlier. Wish I could say the same of me, about as much vibrancy as a bread roll dropped in a puddle… still not strong enough… more »


Villarricas faded Sunday evening streets, out on the hunt for food I note that Funerales Corona is open, always good to know that one can pop one’s clogs on a sunday evening without having to worry about one’s corpse kicking around until 9am on Monday. Finding something to eat on… more »


Despite my words of a couple of days ago I do have reason to remember Santiago… not because I have come down with a dose of bronchitis, no doubt contracted courtesy of Iberia recycled cabin air but rather because of the fantastic hospitality shown me by my hosts yesterday as… more »

Santiago de Chile…

Some cities have a character that I pick up on instantly, other cities have a character that takes a day or two to become apparent… and some just fail to make an impression. Mendoza was in that latter category and so it seems is Santiago. That is not to say… more »

Shelterbox in Chile

With reference to my last post below Shelterbox are right now enroute with aid to Chile after the massive earthquake there a few days ago. With their resources already stretched by the Haiti quake my journey and your donations are more relevant than ever… so please, point your mouse to… more »

El Jardin de Patagonia….

Hola, today I’m writing from Valle la Angostura in Argentina, it calls itself El Jardin de Patagonia… and it really is rather beautiful. The town looks and feels almost identical to Banff, same homogenous natural wood and stone architecture, shops geared towards mountain sports and so on.. very much the… more »

a bit more from Entre Lagos

just as a further update to my big update below… this one is for all my friends at work who thought I was a bit mad coming here on a bike…. it’s been a terrific day, muy mellow. Entre Lagos is very peaceful compared to the hubbub of Sunday, there’s… more »

perro en un alambre….

Hello, bit of a long one this I’m afraid. My diary of the last few days… hope you’re sitting comfortably…. Friday 15th: One of the advantages of carrying a little laptop with me is that, aside from advancing my knowledge (sounds better than merely ‘learning’ don’t you think…) of Spanish… more »

a few pics while I’m at it

ok, a few photos of this place that might convey some of the flavour… i.e bit scruffy, colourful with some interesting bits but otherwise ‘mostly’normal’…  sounds like a description of someone I know :-) It’s a shame it’s so cloudy at the moment, can’t see the mountains/volcanoes. ho hum. it’s… more »