Mostly Buenos Aires

It’s perhaps appropriate that the final journal entry  for this journey comes from the departures lounge in Buenos Aires Ezeiza airport. The past two weeks, although not on two wheels, have left me somewhat worn out; a busy social schedule with friends both here in BA and Villa Mercedes, a… more »

The End of the Road

A medium-sized provincial town deep in the heart of Argentina, about 700km west of Buenos Aires, may seem like an odd place to end a bicycle journey. Ten years ago however, on my very first day in Argentina, having crossed the border from Chile all the way down south in… more »

Córdoba Streets

Thought I’d sling up a few impressions of Córdoba city. It’s alright; colourful, busy, good icecream. I’ll say goodbye to friends here this evening over beers, and will set sail for the final few hundred km to my other friends in Villa Mercedes on Monday. It looks like it could… more »

Cerro Aspero

To my mind one of the greatest things about a bicycle is the ease with which it enables new friendships and shared adventures. The weekend just past I took off to the sierras in the southwest of Córdoba province with new friends from the local biking community for a couple… more »

To Córdoba

There will always be more to do in the Andes but having comprehensively ridden my bike all over from the north to the far south it seemed like a good idea, when thinking about this journey, to head east away from the Andes and have a look at the sierras… more »

The Green Room

The change in riding environment has been so rapid, and so profound that I still have not fully rationalised it. The memories of the months spent on the high, cold, austere altiplano amongst the volcanos and salt pans feel as if they belong to a different life. The transition from… more »


Cafayate is the point at which my route intersects that of ten years ago. It was a lovely place to spend some time then, and remains a lovely place to enjoy the same today. The only difference I can see on this occasion is the almost complete absence of foreign… more »

Cactus Country

The high puna/altiplano can be a punishing place to ride a bicycle, and inevitably at times when battling the wind, the cold, the altitude it is impossible on occasion not to want to be somewhere else. The moment it is left behind however it is missed; the landscapes, the quality… more »

Sixty Degrees of Latitude…

First presented in preview form here Sixty Degrees of Latitude is here at last and available to order. 132 pages of interesting photography, printed on a very high quality ‘lustre’ finish paper.  It is not a travelog as such, nor is it exclusively street photography. Rather it is just a… more »

I see dead people…

“I see dead people“…. sadly if you asked me to come up with a movie quotation off the top of my head then that would probably be it… nothing so special as “Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine…”.. or… more »

las calles de Buenos Aires…

…late summer in Buenos Aires, a time for whiling away the afternoon heat with a cold beer in a dark, smokey bar while watching life pass by on the cracked and crumbling pavements outside… My flight left Ushuaia much later than scheduled… on a scale of 0 to 5 for… more »


“it’s really gasoline? You know, like gasoline gasoline..?” “yep, it is definitely gasoline” “so not alcohol or anything, definitely gasoline?” “yep, definitely gasoline, it came out of a Petrobras pump in Puerto Natales” “oh cool, I’ll have it then, pour it in there….” I packed up my tent for the… more »


You know those vaguely damp looking patches of fur you see on the road sometimes… that may once have been a rabbit or fox but reduced to anonymous flatness by passing traffic… I felt kind of like that once the satisfaction of arriving had worn off, hehe, although Nina’s BBQ… more »

Rio Grande…

I have been in Rio Grande two days… Southern Patagonia has been hard going and with successive stormy nights I’m feeling somewhat shagged… besides with some time on my hands before my flight out of Ushuaia I figured this perpetually cold & windy town was at least worth a look…. more »

Tierra del Fuego…

I think he wanted to play at Captain but instead was being forced to deal with The General Public.. oiks like me for example ;-) Unlike the captain himself the chap managing the boarding and taking tickets for the ferry to Porvenir was a grumpy old duffer… or maybe he… more »

the camp stove sessions…

I must have picked up some bad karma along the way I think, possibly something to do with my comments about the tourists here in El Calafate.. hehe, I was expecting some stronger words but the worst I’ve been accused of so far is being a “a little wry..” ;-)… more »

the Pampa…

“ach, the fuc*ing wind…!” is a phrase I have heard often over the last few weeks.. it is usually the second, if not the first thing cyclists I meet coming from the south say to me. Regardless of their native language they at least have this much English. Statistically it… more »

a salad of meat and beer…

It is strange how not being able to do something increases ones desire to do that very thing… in this case cycling, the motivation is back after a couple of days hiking and a couple of days chilling… but there is little point in rushing south from here. I have… more »

to El Chalten…

I lost my lucky hat….  I lost it in the gale of wind crossing Lago O’Higgins on the boat. But it’s OK, being well prepared as always I have a back-up hat, a woolly one from home in Cornwall. Given its origins I may well find it to be attractive… more »

a melancholy ascent…

I’ve been climbing steadily for the last couple of days…. from Jujuy to Purmamarca, and from Purmamarca to Humahuaca as I make my way up onto the altiplano. The riding itself has been wonderful… from the green valley of San Salvador de Jujuy the road took me up above the… more »

Shelterbox first-hand, and other stuff..

just a short post.. there is a fascinating first hand account of life as a Shelterbox Response Team member during January’s floods/landslides in Peru here: and if after reading it you’d like to make a donation then my JustGiving page is here: …as for me, well getting ready to… more »

a slower pace of life…

The police were playing in the plaza this morning… not The Police but rather the local ‘policia’ band. I was there purely by chance enjoying coffee in the morning sun and watching the slower pace of life on a Saturday morning… and having been very much seeing in colour yesterday… more »

Streets of Salta (& stuff…)

Salta is a great city, it took me a couple of days to get a feel for it but have decided to stay a few days longer and enjoy it, especially as have found some good company here including friends from Cafayate. Salta has a very different feel to Mendoza….. more »

no through road.. Laguna Brava etc

The place I stayed in Villa Union was pretty much just a room in a family house (mum, dad, daughter and her husband and her daughter) where I felt very welcome and equally well looked after. I shared my bit of the covered courtyard with a very vocal parrot blessed… more »

…to San Jose de Jachal

Discovered an amusing fact today while chatting with a local guy… one that most blokes will probably appreciate… in Spanish ‘esposa’ = ‘wife’, nothing funny about that but what I didn’t know until today… and only because we were talking about the freedom to travel and so on, is that… more »

Mendoza… pics

… first a bunch of pics that might give a sense of this place… and then that third interesting thing.. which, with reference to yesterday’s post, is really a third and a fourth (yes, very Monty P) and on reflection only mildly interesting rather than a huge revelation.. ;-) Oh,… more »

el tren ya pie…

Thursday today…  high temperatures and low energy have meant it’s been a very lazy week so far… but then that is what recovery time is all about and Mendoza is a terrific place for putting your feet up at a pavement cafe and watching the world go by… except during… more »

Beinvenidos a Mendoza… :-)

So… here I am in Mendoza, stage 1 complete 1 month and 1958km from Puerto Montt… I’;ve been very productive this morning and now kicking back with a coffee… I’ve dumped my stinky riding gear at a lavadero to get it properly cleaned, I’ve shaved the last 2 weeks worth… more »